Bmw dealership decatur ga

Also, what are businesses that you’d say help or hurt home values and is there a mile radius for this impact?

Hi everyone,
I've been looking at buying the Mazda CX-30, but the closest dealership is over 100 miles away, I live in a ski town in Colorado. Which makes me concerned that if I have some mechanical issues I'll need to have the vehicle towed back to the dealership to get it fixed. Which recently happened to a friend of mine who owns a BMW.
I know a BMW is a lot different than a Mazda so is this a legit concern or am I fretting over nothing?

Hi everyone,
I've been looking at buying the Mazda CX-30, but the closest dealership is over 100 miles away. I live at a ski town in Colorado. Which makes me concerned that if I have some mechanical issue I'll need to have the vehicle towed back to the dealership to get it fixed. Which recently happened to a friend of mine who owns a BMW.
I know a BMW is a lot different than a Mazda so is this a legit concern or am I fretting over nothing?

Like i said in the title, is anyone here working in a BMW dealership that can check a VIN of a bimmer i want to buy if it had regular service records? :)

This was my first BMW dealership experience in NYC (I've been to other dealerships in NYC before but for other brands). Was hoping if anyone else could share their experiences with BMW dealerships in NYC (or in general).
I wanted to do a factory order for 2023 6mt M2 so I emailed the dealer ahead of time if this was possible. They said "Yes, we can do factory order for 2023 M2 at MSRP". I proceeded to schedule appointment to come in.
I was appointed a salesperson (not the same person who I spoke with through email) and brought him up to date. He said he can't add me to the 2023 waitlist anymore and can only do 2024 M2 waitlist. Then he said there will be a 5k markup (he stated that other dealers do 10k). Finally, there will be 3500$ deposit.
I was told that not everyone on the waitlist will get their order and they may be placed on the waitlist for next production year. Otherwise, you'll get your deposit back.
I thought that this new M2 would be less desirable due to the exterior look, and I would be able to snag at MSRP without much trouble. Apparently, this isn't the case.
Are customers paying markup for their M2/M3/M4? Is 3500 deposit normal? How do you guys deal with dealerships when purchasing brand new M2/M3? Should I do multiple deposits at different dealerships? Are some of you just on the waitlist year after year for 2023/24/25? M2/M3/M4 and praying that this year is your year? I want to know if this is a common occurrence/experience at other dealerships (other states). Is there a premium markup that you guys pay just to guarantee your order for that year? What do I have to do?

Hey all this is my first post here. My cousin totaled my Land Rover Discovery HSE Luxury on Memorial Day and so I have to find a new car.
My husband and I (the decision is entirely mine to make but I wanted him to be able to weigh in) went and looked at most places (Acura MDX Type S (he loved how fast and zoomy this was it may have been his fave and the Lexus second fave just for fun factor but the screen wasn’t a touch screen and that was annoying. It was all the touch pad thing), BMW X7(I LOVED this but can’t justify 90k plus especially with 3 kids one is a toddler that is a mess), Audi Q7 (meh for me I didn’t even take him to see one after I’d quickly checked it out myself on the way home from work I was just underwhelmed when I sat in it), Toyota 4Runner(which I was like okay with for what it was trying to be practical and entertain a non luxury option but he totally hated it with a passion and couldn’t get out of the test drive fast enough which shocked me), another Land Rover (we loved the car so much but it was already having issues which you kind of buy it knowing it will and we didn’t want to deal with that again), we even would have looked at a Kia Telluride as a non luxury option if we could have found one to see we didn’t want to rule anything out but I couldn’t even find a dealership that had one to check out) and after trying out everything we decided on the GX460 and put our deposit down yesterday. We test drove that one first yesterday and it stayed with us. We both loved it and felt it was a solid choice for our family and would be reliable and safe but give us that luxury feel we want still.
It’s the Premium Package 2023 Atomic Silver with Sepia interior. We needed the bench seat since we have 3 kids and with the captains chairs we would have to use the third row all the time and have zero room in the back. With the bench we would only need to use the third row very occasionally but have it if we need it.
The vehicle will arrive at the dealership in a few weeks but I’m starting to second guess myself and wonder if I should have done the Luxury trim package? I would love some insight from those who own a 460 already on the major differences and if I should call my salesman and ask to move my deposit to a different vehicle. Like I think only the luxury has air suspension which I had in my Rover. It’s not like we go off-roading but we are in Texas and there are definitely lots of potholes in the city and dirt roads and uneven terrain in the country. Does it make the ride better? Worse? Is it worth it? Anything else I’d regret not upgrading?
Right now my price out the door with all fees and taxes etc is 65k as I am now. The car definitely feels nice as is but since it’s my first Lexus I don’t want to miss something I shouldn’t.

I’m in the market for a weekender convertible. Been mostly looking at used and new Miatas, but my local BMW dealership recently put a 1999 M Roadster with 25k miles up for sale for $29k. 3 owners, clean carfax, test drive was great and the exteriointerior is in fantastic condition. I love the car as my first car was a 1995 318ti, and it gives me major nostalgia.
I just wanted to run it by this community and see if there are any things I should be looking out for, and concerns with ownership such as parts availability and such. I know there is the subframe issue and I have them putting it on the lift Monday to check it out, but I’m assuming with so low miles that won’t be an issue. I would love to own this vehicle but it’s also nearly the same price as a brand new Miata, which would come with a lot of peace of mind and ease of repair. I very much enjoy how the Miata drives, but the BMW just felt like it was on a different level.
Any owners feel free to lend your advice!

Hopefully this is the right place to be asking - I’m looking for my first car and there aren’t many options in my area that are within my budget, however there are two Mini Coopers that I have my eyes on. The first is a 2003, manual transmission with 190,000km (180,060mi roughly), and the second is a 2006, manual (says 5speed, not sure what the difference is) with 169,900km (105,570mi). Are either of these good for a new driver and/ or first car? I’m worried about cost efficiency as well because I’m a student. In case it is worth mentioning, I do have a Mini/ BMW dealership in my area.

Hello Everyone,
I am in need of a pickup truck to replace my 4Runner as I have two jetskis and am looking to get a UTV and need to tow it (roughly 7500lbs max). I am not sure if I should go to a to a 1/2 ton or a 3/4 ton. I have a paid off 4Runner TRD Pro I am selling. I am willing to finance or lease depending on which is better for a new pickup based upon reliability .
Requirements:

• Ride needs to be as comfortable as possible since I will be doing 4 hr+ drives to Moab/Lake Tahoe with a trailer alot. I also live by lakes locally and during the Summer-Fall I constantly will be towing as I am a big fan of offroading and going to the lake. I really am sick of tire roar in my 4Runner and it makes my ears ring on long drives.
• Bed can fit appliances as I am going through a remodel and am sick of renting pickups. I didnt realize how often I needed to use a bed of a truck.
• Least annoying driver's infotainment to use.
• Most reliable of the domestic brands (I used to be a Toyota fan but I drove the new Tundra and hated it both in looks and ride quality so I am ditching them for good)
• Capable of handling a dirt and gravel road (I noticed alot of top trim trucks have 21-22in. rims. which makes me question if you can take them offroad at all).
• Nice enough to daily when I am not driving our SUV (BMW x7). My wife often uses it so I dont want to be stuck without a car and I want to buy something purely for me to use. She absoutely despises pickups and asked me a bunch of times to not get one, but I have learned SUVs just suck for towing large weight, she can drive that and leave me be.
• Least punishing dealership experience for servicing, again Toyota here is awful for this, its so bad I go to a Lexus dealer for oil changes, brake jobs and diff fluids just so I wont have to deal with the insane backlog.
• Durable enough to handle salt on roads without rotting out and capable of being left outside in snow without ruining the paint.
• Must have at least a v8 if its a gasoline engine, my 4Runner has a v6 and its so slow. (I am not opposed to diesel either if they are reliable)

Budget: 100k max
No Brand Loyalty (used to be Toyota but the hybrid v6 utterly put me off and the interior I did not like, especially the tablet.
No EV trucks, my neighbor had a Rivian R1T and already dumped it when he tried towing with it and shared with me his experience, I dont want to learn the same lesson he did. Plus I refuse to own anything without Apple Carplay.
I give zero shits about fuel economy as long as its not under 10mpg and can take costco premium without knocking if its gasoline.
What I have checked out so far.
Toyota Tundra Capstone: Ugly looks, annoying tablet, awful ride that actually made me feel carsick, laggy powertain that doesnt save really much gas, and why white leather in a truck?! The dealer tried to offer me an allocation on a TRD Pro like my 4Runner with 20k markup! I told him to get lost.
GMC Sierra Denali Ultimate: Loved the interior, it rode almost as nice as our SUV, not sure however if its reliable or can go offroad with the 21inch. rims. The supercruise is amazing but they told me 7-9 months with all the options I wanted so I walked out (I just wanted the supercruise) and they tried panic calling me a few times, they STILL are blowing up my phone even a week after hounding me.
Ford F150 Raptor: Tire roar was unbearably loud at highway speeds even worse than my modded 4Runner and the markup was unpleasant. They have even less inventory, just v6 F150s in low trims so I bailed on them too. Again same as the GMC dealers they are phone pests. I didnt even get to try the super duties because they didnt let me drive one and said a v6 F150 is enough (basically trying to force me to buy something on the lot), sorry I want something better If I am willing to pay that.
I am not sure where I should go from here honestly, I am not very knowledgable about trucks, I liked the idea of the 2024 GMC 2500 HD AT4 as well, but all the GMC dealers here are connected and have the most miserable inventories. They have used current gen HD 2500/3500 trucks, but their interiors just dont match up to price they are asking, they remind me of Tahoes in the worst way.
I was thinking that the offroad variants with more sidewall would be a better ride, but I am not sure when it comes to trucks and could use some more info on this. I heard good things about Ram minus their reliability. Where I live pretty much everyone has a top trim GMC Sierra/2550 or Ford SuperDuty as their hauler because they always are towing horse trailers or boats. What would you all reccomend?
Thanks!

I'm looking at an F10 535xi with this error on the iDrive display. Does not say "reduce effort" like I've seen other people getting online. Seller says it's from when they got the power steering pump replaced at the BMW dealership. Dealer forgot to replace a sensor, which is triggering the code.
I've read that this may have to do with the angle sensor. Steering was perfect when I drove it. He's had this code for several months since he got it replaced.
Otherwise everything is perfect with the car. This is the only issue. How hard is it to replace this sensor? I'm going to buy a Bluetooth OBD dongle and scan it when I go to look at purchasing it - what app do you guys use?

I purchased a BMW M3 in the first week of January. Sales guy basically refused to accept my navy federal loan because he wanted to push dealer financing. I reached out to corporate to resolve issue and was told I’d receive a refund for the shipping for the unnecessary delays at the dealership. I received the car with the switch to open and close doors as well as the 4way flasher inoperable (right after passing NYS inspection). Drove it home and noticed a horrible vibration. Took 5 months for carmax to replace both wheel bearing hubs and a bent wheel. As for that refund I just received it yesterday June 2. Never again will I purchase a car from carmax.

Hi bmw I’m new here and picking up my X3 today from BMW dealership. Is the $500 for 3 years worth of maintenance worth it? I’ve already bought it, but just wondering what y’all know. I figured, that’s like $167 a year, and just oil changes alone are like $70 at express, so figured if I get 2-4 oil changes a year, it’s worth it.

I was the first to get this new marvel of an automobile at my local dealership. It’s been a terrible experience. It’s been in for service for almost the entire time since I bought it. They couldn’t install the heated steering wheel in Spartanburg. Who knows why? Wouldn’t take a charge after I picked it up. Lots of other defects and error messages. A month later they can’t even fix it after having the dealership’s top tech work on it and having bmw specialists come in to assist.
I requested they build me a new car. Yesterday, bmw relented and I am told they will build me another. That’s the good news.
What would you do if this was a car you ordered and waited for for months? Would you expect bmw to make up for the experience by offering you some free upgrades? Anyone else ever experience anything like this? Suggestions?

So I went to a bmw dealership and they printed out the codes and tried to delete them but they couldn’t as it wasn’t possible to communicate with MRS (the airbag module in the center console) So before I buy a new one, what else can I try? Any fuses I could change? Is there a connection which I could clean, or is my only option to switch out the module?

Full disclosure, this is a bike. Shouldn't matter though. (1975 BMW R 90/6)
My state of GA won't issue a title with a bill of sale, but I was able to register it. Can I use my registration to get an out of state title, and then use that to get an in-state title? I think there was a midwestern state know for titling kit cars. Is that something I could do?

Thinking of buying my first car sometime in Jul/Aug and after visiting a few dealerships, I am now conflicted between two options:

1. A short term (< 3 years) car with high PARF value, so when COE decreases in the future you don’t get affected that much as you essentially get more money back when selling/scraping the car.
   
2. A longer term/brand new car but obviously a more economical one (e.g. Vezel), but may be more at risk when COE decreases as these cars don’t hold value.
   

For both options, the downpayment and monthly instalment is similar, at $30k~ and $1.3-1.5k~ respectively.
Half of me is thinking maybe I should be a giga chad and drive like a 7yo BMW cab and the other half says get the brand new vezel because honda is bulletproof. I don’t know much about car ownership, so can someone kindly advise and what would you do if you were me! Thanks 🙏🏻
Edit: Thanks for the comments lads, I think imma settle for a pre owned 1 owner jap car with about 4-5 years left 👌🏻

I just moved to sc, from GA and I need a new car (mine is currently down) I was wondering if I could still buy a car from a dealership with an out of state licenses.