Jeep dealership moab utah

Hey all,
I'm in the market for a new Wrangler. I'm waiting for the 2024's because of the improved Uconnect tech and 4xe battery. But I'm being flooded with instagram and google banner ads for these things.
So basically a few times an hour for months I'm clicking on dealership ads for Wranglers and browsing them.
When I walk into my Jeep dealer and give them my info for a test drive, is there an integration that connects my identity that back to the ad systems that track my obsession with shopping for wranglers as some sort of signal for likelihood of purchasing?
Is this a thing yet? Not even sure if that can be used against me or give me an advantage because you guys know my purchase is imminent and likely based on that data, if you have it.
I have worked in conversion rate optimization and digital advertising for years, and I know that it is theoretically possible to connect this data using anonymized identifiers, especially if I ever fill in information on a website form after clicking an ad.
But I have no idea if the car dealer industry website systems have gone as far as integrating that tech.

Long story short: about to be installing my fifth oil filter housing assembly in eight months.
The Jeep: 2016 RHD JK with 100k+ miles, used for mail delivery that I've owned for four years. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 High Mileage Synthetic before the new engine which has had whatever Mopar oil the dealership put in. Also, I do use a torque wrench to tighten the filter to 18 ft. lbs. at every oil change, which I've been doing around every 3,000 miles because of the intense use.
I came home one day in October 2022 and noticed something that caught my eye on the garage floor underneath my Jeep. I looked and there was oil running underneath my Jeep on the backside of the oil pan and along where the inspection plugs are at on the bell housing, and had the transmission pan covered. I looked in the engine bay and I could tell the valve cover gaskets were wet (this will become somewhat relevant later). I checked the dipstick and noticed I was down a half-quart of oil. I got in touch with a local shop that has a good rep within my small community and the mechanic said it wasn't my valve covers, that I had an oil filter housing leak that was just running along the valve cover. I wanted him to do the work because I wasn't super-eager about reassembling the intake and I needed new spark plugs anyways (this will also come back later), so that overlaps well enough. It took him a month to get around to it, I drove my backup a lot in the meantime, and the bill for spark plugs and the oil filter ended up being $660. That's how I got Oil Filter Housing #2.
But the Jeep kept leaking oil.
I took it back to the local mechanic the next chance I got, a couple of weeks later. He said he'd look at it that day, I guess he did, and assured me it was probably old oil that was still stuck along the way. I was skeptical; after probably fifty hours of use, any old oil should have run off or burned off a bit ago. The Jeep keeps on leaking oil, even after I do an oil change. I take it back and the local mechanic pours some dye in and tells me to come back in a day and he will look and see if it's still leaking fresh oil. Local mechanic finds that it is and he reinstalls the oil filter housing, free of charge to me.
We had a wet and icy winter in the central US that kept the garage floor and the bell housing and the transmission pan cleaned off so I didn't notice a lot of oil getting on the floor but I did have to keep the Jeep topped off, losing a quart about every 1500 miles. I'm figuring that's not super unusual for a Pentastar with 100k+ on the clock and I'm busy and don't have time to have the Jeep laid up in the weather that I bought it for. When spring comes around I start to notice the leak again. At this point I'm starting to suspect a rear main seal more than oil filter housing but the inspection holes are still dry.
One weekend in March, I did an oil change on a Sunday afternoon. The next day (Monday, the perfect day of the week for this to happen), I'm heading out to load my Jeep and I notice a gigantic puddle of something underneath my Jeep. It looks to me like the front crankshaft seal just pissed itself. I feel the puddle and the liquid is slick, like oil. It's also barely above 32F outside, and all the liquid I can see is running underneath the crankshaft pulley. Oil stick still looks OK though. I panic drive the Jeep back home and get it in the garage, put a mat under it, get my backup and do my route. I try to get a local shop (the one I went to before or any others within ten miles, which is about as far as I estimate it can go) to see if they can get my Jeep in but they refuse to take it because they are too busy. I call a Jeep dealership a couple of towns over that has a good reputation (as opposed to the one a town over, but owned by the same company, that doesn't) and have it towed there. I tell them about the immediate problem and the oil leak I've been having. The service advisor, who I have to say is one of the better ones I've ever worked with on anything, calls me back and tell me that it wasn't the crank seal, it was the water pump. They also noticed I had some rocker arms going bad. I tell them that I had noticed that too (I had always heard that Jeep dealerships wouldn't look at rockers until a check engine light came on otherwise I'd have taken care of this a year or two ago) and that they would replace those. The oil leak looked to be coming out of the oil filter housing and the valve covers (the same thing I thought six months ago). To skip ahead through a couple of phone calls, the rockers on the left bank of the Pentastar were also bad and a cam over there was damaged. I could have all of that repaired for $5300 or just install a reman engine + the oil filter housing for around $8k, which would include a three year, 100k mile parts & labor warranty. After thinking about what else could continue going wrong, I ended up telling them to put a reman in. I get over to the dealership to pick up my Jeep after it's all said and done and the SA says "Oh, we had to put new spark plugs in, the old ones were junk and weren't really for that vehicle." My opinion of the trusted local mechanic really has gone downhill but I'm thrilled to have all of their bullshit behind me. That's the story of how I got Oil Filter Housing #3.
Things are going fine with the Jeep, not hearing any crazy noises, but it does occur to me to check the oil after about 1,000 miles. I check and it's about a half-quart low. My eyebrows are raised but I think, "well maybe the dealership only put 5.5 quarts in." I top it off with some Mobil 1 I had around, and continue on as normal. After about 2600 miles on the new motor, I decide to check it again and the oil level is barely registering on the dipstick. I look underneath the Jeep and the back of the pan and the bell housing are all covered with oil again (nothing's on the transmission pan, curiously enough). I look up top and I can see oil coming out below where the filter is (which I haven't even touched on this engine). I top off the Jeep (with Mobil 1 again, which I thought about but that didn't make the Jeep oil level low to start with), call the dealership, and they conclude that it is oil filter housing and they replace the oil filter housing and change the oil, all under warranty and it didn't cost me a dime. That's Oil Filter Housing #4.
I got my Jeep back Wednesday of last week. Besides driving it home, I drove my backup vehicle on Thursday and drove the Jeep on the route on Friday & Saturday (yesterday). There's an empty church parking lot I usually stop at and re-sort and reorganize my parcels in. I decided to have a peek underneath just to check things out and sure enough, right on the bottom side of the bell housing once again. I'm going to be calling the dealership back first chance I get this week, so I guess this will be Oil Filter Housing #5.
So that's the full background.
My question is, are there any other causes for this besides just coincidentally bad workmanship spread across multiple mechanics and companies, or have Mopar parts quality just gotten this bad? Is there anything I can bring up to the Jeep SA that might be making these oil filter housing assemblies fail? I'm completely out of ideas here.

For those who don't know, a concept of BeamNG's career mode is available if you click the career button (although grayed out) 6 times. In the career mode, you can "purchase" a car, do races and jobs, and of course crash. While I like it, I found myself underwhelmed; even if it is just an "open alpha".
Last week, I downloaded Street Legal Racing Redline again. After playing it a bit, I realized that it had what I want. So, I'll describe how one might go about combining what little we've seen of the career mode with SLRR's career mode.
For starters, I don't hate what has already been shown. But, I do think that it's rudimentary, bare in mind going forward, this is only based off of what we've seen, and there may be more anyways. Anything I say is only meant as a critique. I think that what has been shown should remain though, albeit expanded upon. The street races could be a good way to provide high money, but at high risk. Perhaps have races at the track (assuming the base map is West Coast USA, more on that later) where you can also do higher paying races, with low risk, but only on a schedule time frame; similar to SLRR's time system that opens and closes shops and starts and stops the drag races.
The other jobs, such as the cable one, could also be expanded upon. One of the things that drives me crazy in SLRR is when you completely destroy your car, and have no money to fix it. This could be remedied by having a cable job (perhaps utilizing the walk feature and bus stops) that you can do, although you have to do it. You could also add a delivery job, that uses your own car. It doesn't pay as much, but you are on no schedule. Another one could be a volunteer police officer, which lets you use police cars and hunt crooks. Maybe even shut down a street race.
While I do like the idea of the base map being WCUSA, I know some of my potato friends may have a sub optimal time running it. I propose adding both Utah and ECUSA/Italy as other options, with more maps opening as you get funds to travel there (perhaps in a similar fashion to Snowrunner?). Utah could feature more offroad events, such as rally and crawling; while ECUSA could feature rally and hillclimb/closed street circuits.
Another thing that I like from SLRR is the garage and parts shop. The garage in the game is already fairly useful, with my only gripe being that the menu is clunky (the one built into the career mode, not the actual garage map). I think this can be better changed in two ways: firstly making the garage only for changing and modifying your car(s). Secondly, again utilizing the bus stops, add functionality to the dealerships by creating them as places to buy new or used cars, depending on the dealership.
Another thing SLRR does well is the parts shop, and in a similar vain, damage to cars is also done well. I propose that the parts menu in game currently is slightly adjusted in career mode to only feature parts you own, although parts that work on multiple cars (Nomi GTT wing for instance) can be applied to multiple cars (although, only one car per part). We also know that BeamNG can store and also reload damaged vehicles. Again similar to SLRR, what if damage applied to your car remained even after you close the game? Let's say I slam my Sunburst into a guardrail, then quit the game. I'd want to see (alongside the small charge that towing has) my Sunburst still damaged.
While I know we've been waiting for the long awaited career mode for awhile, I think making these changes is worth it if it means that BeamNG is still the best car sim out there.
​
Long story short: Make BeamNG's career mode similar to SLRR, while also still retaining what we've already seen.

I'm looking to custom-order a Chevrolet Bolt from a dealer that participates in the NYS $2000 EV rebate. As per the nyserda.ny.gov website, these are the participating dealerships.

• 112 Mazda Nesenger, Mazda 112, Hyundai 112, Chevrolet 112 - Medford
• Arnold Chevrolet Buick- West Babylon
• Atlantic Chevrolet Cadillac - Bayshore
• Atlantic Chrysler Jeep Dodge Ram - West Islip
• Buzz Chew Chevrolet Cadillac Inc - Southampton
• Chevrolet of Huntington - Huntington
• Eagle Chevrolet of Riverhead - Riverhead
• Major World - Long Island City
• North Shore Chevrolet of Smithtown - Saint James

Is there any particular dealership on this list that is good? Any that I should avoid?

I'll be with my 13 year old daughter after flying in to AZ to pick up a new Titan pro-4x and driving it back to Indiana next weekend. I've always wanted to check out some of the amazing looking trails I have seen online in Utah and Colorado, but don't want to go anywhere too crazy being that I'll have a stock titan, a kid with me, and have a long way to drive home. What would you guys recommend? Should I try Moab maybe? I'd even love to meet up at an event or something.

Hello Everyone,
I am in need of a pickup truck to replace my 4Runner as I have two jetskis and am looking to get a UTV and need to tow it (roughly 7500lbs max). I am not sure if I should go to a to a 1/2 ton or a 3/4 ton. I have a paid off 4Runner TRD Pro I am selling. I am willing to finance or lease depending on which is better for a new pickup based upon reliability .
Requirements:

• Ride needs to be as comfortable as possible since I will be doing 4 hr+ drives to Moab/Lake Tahoe with a trailer alot. I also live by lakes locally and during the Summer-Fall I constantly will be towing as I am a big fan of offroading and going to the lake. I really am sick of tire roar in my 4Runner and it makes my ears ring on long drives.
• Bed can fit appliances as I am going through a remodel and am sick of renting pickups. I didnt realize how often I needed to use a bed of a truck.
• Least annoying driver's infotainment to use.
• Most reliable of the domestic brands (I used to be a Toyota fan but I drove the new Tundra and hated it both in looks and ride quality so I am ditching them for good)
• Capable of handling a dirt and gravel road (I noticed alot of top trim trucks have 21-22in. rims. which makes me question if you can take them offroad at all).
• Nice enough to daily when I am not driving our SUV (BMW x7). My wife often uses it so I dont want to be stuck without a car and I want to buy something purely for me to use. She absoutely despises pickups and asked me a bunch of times to not get one, but I have learned SUVs just suck for towing large weight, she can drive that and leave me be.
• Least punishing dealership experience for servicing, again Toyota here is awful for this, its so bad I go to a Lexus dealer for oil changes, brake jobs and diff fluids just so I wont have to deal with the insane backlog.
• Durable enough to handle salt on roads without rotting out and capable of being left outside in snow without ruining the paint.
• Must have at least a v8 if its a gasoline engine, my 4Runner has a v6 and its so slow. (I am not opposed to diesel either if they are reliable)

Budget: 100k max
No Brand Loyalty (used to be Toyota but the hybrid v6 utterly put me off and the interior I did not like, especially the tablet.
No EV trucks, my neighbor had a Rivian R1T and already dumped it when he tried towing with it and shared with me his experience, I dont want to learn the same lesson he did. Plus I refuse to own anything without Apple Carplay.
I give zero shits about fuel economy as long as its not under 10mpg and can take costco premium without knocking if its gasoline.
What I have checked out so far.
Toyota Tundra Capstone: Ugly looks, annoying tablet, awful ride that actually made me feel carsick, laggy powertain that doesnt save really much gas, and why white leather in a truck?! The dealer tried to offer me an allocation on a TRD Pro like my 4Runner with 20k markup! I told him to get lost.
GMC Sierra Denali Ultimate: Loved the interior, it rode almost as nice as our SUV, not sure however if its reliable or can go offroad with the 21inch. rims. The supercruise is amazing but they told me 7-9 months with all the options I wanted so I walked out (I just wanted the supercruise) and they tried panic calling me a few times, they STILL are blowing up my phone even a week after hounding me.
Ford F150 Raptor: Tire roar was unbearably loud at highway speeds even worse than my modded 4Runner and the markup was unpleasant. They have even less inventory, just v6 F150s in low trims so I bailed on them too. Again same as the GMC dealers they are phone pests. I didnt even get to try the super duties because they didnt let me drive one and said a v6 F150 is enough (basically trying to force me to buy something on the lot), sorry I want something better If I am willing to pay that.
I am not sure where I should go from here honestly, I am not very knowledgable about trucks, I liked the idea of the 2024 GMC 2500 HD AT4 as well, but all the GMC dealers here are connected and have the most miserable inventories. They have used current gen HD 2500/3500 trucks, but their interiors just dont match up to price they are asking, they remind me of Tahoes in the worst way.
I was thinking that the offroad variants with more sidewall would be a better ride, but I am not sure when it comes to trucks and could use some more info on this. I heard good things about Ram minus their reliability. Where I live pretty much everyone has a top trim GMC Sierra/2550 or Ford SuperDuty as their hauler because they always are towing horse trailers or boats. What would you all reccomend?
Thanks!

I am not sure if this is the right sub for this, sorry if it’s not and please remove. I dropped my Jeep off 3 weeks ago because it wouldn’t accelerate. Turns out it needs a new throttle body. So, it’s been up there for 3 weeks and basically nothing has happened to it. First, they kept telling me they were waiting for my warranty to approve the claim. I called multiple times throughout the first week and they kept telling me the same thing, so I called my warranty company myself and they said they approved it days ago… so why were they telling me they were waiting on my warranty company if they already did their part? I went up to the dealership and told them that it’s approved days ago so please start on my car. Anyways, the guy working on my car calls me the next day “Great news, your warranty approved the claim, but the throttle body is on back order with no ETA, so yeah anyways I’ll be out Wednesday through next Tuesday thanks”… So I don’t know who I’m supposed to be in contact with if this guy is out and it’s the same answer every time “His notes say the part is on back order.” That’s all they have for me. It was a voice message that he left otherwise I would have asked him directly. So, to me this could be another week or 6 months. I have no idea and I’m getting frustrated because it’s not practical for me to walk to work everyday across a highway and down the service road.
So, am I being an impatient ass of a customer?

Good afternoon everyone,
I currently own a 2019 Jeep Wrangler Sport that has only 25,000km. I paid $42,000 cash (including taxes) for the car last year. I went to a Toyota dealership today and was told that they would offer me $32,000 (including taxes) if I was to trade it in for a 2023 Toyota Corolla SE+. Do you guys think it would be better to keep the Jeep since it’s paid off or trade it-in for the Toyota and lose the 10k difference?
Other information : I only go to the office twice a week but it still cost me over $100/week in gas with the Jeep. I’m a bit worried about Jeep’s reputation as for reliability. I’m not a big car guy and I bought the Jeep mostly because my friends and relatives also bought Jeeps at the same time.
Thank you and have a nice weekend!
Edit: The 2023 Toyota Corolla SE+ cost 33k (including taxes). Thank you everyone for your input! It’s much appreciated!

This is a long shot, but does anyone know of any Utah dealerships offering ‘23 models at invoice?

Me and my girlfriend are planning a trip to Utah this summer and I was curious what places in Utah would be best for us to go. I prefer not to have huge crowds of people around me but while I’m out enjoying nature. Zion national park looks amazing but I know it’s very popular. Any other places we would be better off going or is there a way I can stay semi secluded when hiking in Zion?
Moab, Utah was another option for us. Is it more secluded than the Springdale/Zion area?

Since I updated my iPhone to 16.5, I've been having issues with CarPlay firing up. This is new, as I've never had this sort of problem since I got my Gladiator. Restarting the Jeep doesn't fix it, nor does restarting the phone. If I let the Jeep sit for a while, it usually fixes it.
I looked around in the settings to try to find a way to update the software on the Jeep side and couldn't find anything. Is the software update buried somewhere or do I have to go to the dealership?
Thanks!

Planning a road trip from Bay Area to Grand Teton and Yellowstone, first week of July.
Love to hear any suggestions and tips from experienced road travellers.
Planning to break at Elko NV both ways.
https://preview.redd.it/eajfbknz5q3b1.png?width=2924&format=png&auto=webp&s=5609d5e7eebac1b9aa45a7a2cfc6f6f5d2fc0be0

Soooo, maybe it’s because I’ve lived in SLC my whole live and am bored of it, but I can’t think of ANYTHING fun to take my friend to next Sunday when he comes from out of town :(
He’s only been to Utah once and last time was lack luster. Do you think it’s worth driving to Moab for a night camping trip or something since he’s never seen the red rocks? I don’t know I need suggestions!